1,015 steps of Yamadera (Risshakuji Temple), Yamagata, Japan

November, 2012

Not all great, treasured temples are situated in Kyoto.

The recovering tsunami/earthquake devastated Tohoku Region of Japan offers another reason why you should reconsider visiting the area, that is if you want to admire one of Japan’s ancient mountain temple (Yamadera, also known as “Risshakuji Temple”) and at the same time take a moment to reflect as you climb the temple 1,015 steps.

Arriving at Yamadera Station, on a sunny-less morning from Sendai via JR Senzan Line, I was looking forward on seeing the mountain temples as it mixed with the colorful autumn leaves. Hoping that the weather will be better later, I walked straight towards the location of the temple entrance with the help of the Buddhist monk-shaped information guides on the street.

Climbing the stone staircase of 1,015 steps with me are mostly elderly whom I admire dearly. With their walking sticks and digital camera hanging on their neck, you will not believe how strong they are. I wish when I reach their age, I will have the same enthusiasm as they are- to travel, to explore places and maybe continue to blog about my experiences.

After few minutes, I took my first temple steps and arrived at the main hall (Konpon-Chudo, built in 1356 by the Lord of Yamagata Castle.

To move further up, a 300 Yen entrance fee is collected at the temple gate.

From the entrance, the journey of 1,015 steps commence.

The goal is to reach the peak of this cliff, while admiring the small temples situated along the way.

The view of greenery around and several statues along the way offers a good climbing distraction to all visitors. During summer, it is said that the sound of cicadas floats thru the temple path, another source of inspiration for haiku poet- Matsuo Basho.
“ah this silence / sinking into the rocks / voice of cicada”

One of the parts I like the most about the mountain temple are its sharp cliffs and rock formation, particularly the part where there are writings on the wall together with 1 yen coin offering. If you look a little farther away from the rock formation, it is said that the century of weather changes has resemble an outline of a Buddhist priest meditating so long than one of his legs fell off.

Continue climbing up, you will pass by a gate made up of zelkova wood.

More stairs and more steps, I reached another temple on the top most part. Most people who climbed with me are taking their time to place a sotoba (wooden stick with the name of the deceased relatives) and offered a prayer at the Buddha statues nearby.

Here are some other small temples that you will see along the way.

Finally, with the commanding view of the town below, I reached the topmost cliff where the Risshaku Nokyo-do is located. This shot is actually the classic Yamadera view.

On the opposite side of Nokyo-do is Godai-do, built originally as a place to pray for peace on earth and now used mostly by tourist to view the mountain ranges and town around Yamadera.

There is a reason why the 1,015 steps were built. As the signage on the temple entrance explains following the Buddhist monks belief- “We have been climbing this sacred mountain’s stone stairs step-by-step since ancient times as an ascetic practice to give us faith and extinguish our worldly desires.”

Though a ropeway is surely possible to build for easy access, but true to its Buddhist teaching the temple will keep its 1,015 steps so that any visitors might find a moment of clarity along the way.